Editor's Choice

Mapplr’s favorite ryokans in Japan 30 December 08

garden in kyoto

If you are going to Japan, consider staying in a ryokan (a traditional Japanese guesthouse) instead of a hotel, as many Japanese do, when they travel within their country. Many ryokans are small, family-run guesthouses that offer a very Japanese experience. They vary in price and quality, with high-end ryokans costing hundreds of dollars a night, and less expensive ones, even in Tokyo, under $100. Some people call them the Japanese version of the B&B, but it’s nothing like a B&B. Many ryokans have Japanese communal baths in the basement or the rooftop. Indulging in the Japanese bathing ritual is quite a delight: you wash first, then immerse yourself in a large hot pool of steaming water. The more expensive ryokans also serve you a kaiseki dinner (multi-course Japanese “haute cuisine”) in your room.

My Japanese ryokan experience

I stayed in a marvelous ryokan when I visited Kyoto in February 2008. My room had a real tatami mat which I had to be very careful not to ruin. I took off my shoes when I entered my room and donned layers of thick luxurious Japanese robes and slippers for walking around the ryokan. They had Japanese baths in the basement, which I used every evening. There’s nothing like a hot Japanese bath after spending all day walking around the city.

At night, they served a kaiseki dinner in my room, which I ate on a low table while sitting on the floor. Later in the evening, the staff came back to take out the futon from the closet and roll it out for me. In the morning, they came back to put the futon back into the closet and to serve me a delicious Japanese breakfast.

Because many ryokans do not have staff who can take reservations in English, it’s wise to go through a ryokan booking service who can also advise you on other matters, such as in which part of the city to stay, the type of ryokan that would suit your budget and more. I used Japanese Guest Houses, which handles the reservations for many ryokans. So I asked Jeff Aasgaard, owned of Japanese Guest Houses, to give me his list of favorite ryokans in Japan:

Osenkaku in Gunma

Shojoshin-in on Mt Koya

Momijiso in Miyajima

Kikokuso in Kyoto

Kankaso in Nara

Nagase Ryokan in Takayama

Sumiyoshi in Takayama

Magoemon in Shirakawa-go

If you want to stay in a high-end ryokan, Jeff suggests these places:

Hiiragiya Ryokan in Kyoto

Tamahan in Kyoto

Yagyunosho in Izu Hanto

Arai Ryokan in Izu Hanto

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L’Ardoise: excellent French bistro in San Francisco 26 December 08

It’s not easy to find an authentic French bistro in San Francisco. When I say authentic, I mean not just the food but also the service. Restaurants in France (and other parts of Europe) serve the coffee after the dessert and bring you the bill only after you ask for it. I have a pet peeve about restaurants in the US: the staff are always trying to rush you out the door. They’ll bring you the check just as you’ve polished off the last bit of chocolate souffle and then with smile, say, “here’s the bill, but there’s no rush.” Yeah right.

Not at L’Ardoise. The place looks like a cozy little bistro in France and the service is European. The food is outstanding: foie gras, escargots in a garlic parsley sauce, coq au vin, seafood gratin, tarte tatin and more. Definitely worth a visit.

  • Vibe: cozy French bistro near Duboce Park; dark wood panelling, wooden chairs and tables as one would find in a bistro.
  • Pros: very delicious, reasonably priced French dishes like coq au vin and foie gras; excellent service (European style).
  • Cons: Noisy when the place is full, but not impossible to hear your dining companion; hardly any street parking so take the SF Muni subway (the closest stop is Duboce Park on the N-line, otherwise get off at the Castro underground station).

L’Ardoise
151 Noe Street
San Francisco, CA 94114
+1 415 437 2600
www.lardoisesf.com

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Additions to the Amsterdam dining scene: Mantoe, Umoja and Le Restaurant 22 December 08

Amsterdam has been blessed with a lot of outstanding restaurants opening in the past five years. Once ethnic food meant a choice between Indonesian and bland Chinese food, now we’ve got Moroccan, Thai, Japanese and finally, Afghan cuisine from a new restaurant called Mantoe in the Jordaan. It’s become a neighborhood favorite because the food is amazing and the prices are reasonable.

Another fabulous addition to the dining scene is Le Restaurant, owned by a chef who has received two Michelin stars in previous restaurants where he cooked. If you are craving fresh organic (blessed by the EKO label) food, go to Umoja, which is conveniently located very close to Vondelpark.

Mantoe
2de Leliedwarsstraat 13
1015 TB Amsterdam
Netherlands
+31 20 4216347
Afghan cuisine

Le Restaurant
2de Jan Steenstraat 3
1073 VK Amsterdam
Netherlands
+31 20 379 2207
Classic French from a Michelin-star chef

Umoja
Amstelveenseweg 154
1075 XM Amsterdam
Netherlands
+31 20 770 6420
http://www.umojarestaurant.nl
Fresh, organic food

Click on the map of my favorite Amsterdam restaurants and cafes.

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Mapplr’s favorite restaurants in London 20 December 08

It’s time to go to London again. The value of British pound has declined in the past month, reaching near parity with the euro. It has gone down against the dollar to as low as $1.49. Since I’ve already posted my favorite boutique hotels in London, here’s a list of my favorite restaurants. Most of them are Indian restaurants with a couple of fancier places like Corrigan’s in Mayfair and L’Anima, and one Sichuan place called Bar Shu.

Bar Shu
28 Frith Street
Soho
W1D 5LF
London, United Kingdom
+44 20 7287 8822
www.bar-shu.co.uk
Sichuan food

Corrigan’s Mayfair
28 Upper Grosvenor Street
London W1
United Kingdom
+44 2 7499 9943
www.corrigansmayfair.com
Specialty: game; elegant dining room

L’Anima
1 Snowden Street
London EC2A 2DQ
United Kingdom
+44 20 7422 7000
www.lanima.co.uk
Italian cuisine; elegant, tranquil interiors, white furniture

Chowki
2-3 Denman Street
London W1D 7HA
United Kingdom
Indian

Lahore Kebab House
2-4 Umberston St
London E1 1PY
United Kingdom
Indian

Kerala
15 Great Castle St
London W1W 8LT
United Kingdom
Indian

Kastoori Restaurant
188 Upper Tooting Rd
London SW17 7EJ
United Kingdom
Indian

Hot Stuff
19 Wilcox Rd
London SW8 2XA
United Kingdom
Indian

Cafe Spice Namaste
16 Prescot Street
London E1 8AZ
United Kingdom
+44 20 7488 9242
www.cafespice.co.uk
Innovative Indian cuisine

Quilon
41 Buckingham Gate
London SW1
United Kingdom
+44 20 7821 1899
www.thequilonrestaurant.com
South Indian cuisine

Go to a map of the best boutique hotels and restaurants in London.

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Mapplr adds more favorites in Tel Aviv: tapas, North African, desserts and Italian 14 December 08

I enjoy eating out in Tel Aviv. The city has so many good restaurants and keeps adding more. Since I love ceviche and tapas, I am pleased to add Tapeo, a tapas bar and ceviche restaurant which has two locations: one in Tel Aviv, another in Hertzelia. If you are craving sweets or simply want a delicious hearty breakfast, go to Nico on Rothschild. If it’s Moroccan/North African food you are craving, head down to Shoshi & Bachor (I love the couscous and tagine dishes). And if you’re sick and tired of your old favorite Italian trattoria, try this new Italian restaurant called Cucina Tamar.

Tapeo
Haarbaa 16
Tel Aviv, Israle
+972 3 624 0484
also at:
Sheinkar 9
Hertzelia, Israel
+972 9 9546699
www.rest.co.il/_Intros/Tapeo/intro.html
Tapas and ceviche bar with two locations

Nico
142 Rothschild (corner of Marmorek)
Tel Aviv, Israel
+972 3 560 0874
Breakfast and desserts

Shoshi & Bachor
Yad Harutzim 14
Tel Aviv, Israel
+972 3 687 2895
North Africa / Moroccan

Cucina Tamar
10 Hatzfira Street
Tel Aviv, Israel
+972 3 639 0407
Italian in the Yad Harutzim neighborhood

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