Istanbul food feature in the New Yorker

Rooftops of mosques Istanbul

I would like to draw your attention to an article in the New Yorker by Elif Batuma about Turkish food. The piece focuses on Turkish chef Musa Dağdeviren and his restaurant Çiya Sofrasi, which happens to be my favorite restaurant in the city (see Mapplr review of Çiya Sofrasi).

Çiya Sofrasi is not in the main tourist area of Sultanahmet. You have to take a ferry to Kadikoy, then find your way around the narrow streets where vendors sell fish, vegetables, bread, and pastries. We had to ask two different people for directions once we got to the neighborhood. Fortunately, everyone seems to know Çiya Sofrasi.

If you are going to Istanbul, make sure you read our reviews of hotels and restaurants, as well as our favorite hammams and hip hangouts:

Travel guide to Istanbul

Top restaurants serving Turkish cuisine

Top seafood restaurants

Istanbul restaurants and clubs where the fashionable crowd hangs out

Top Turkish hammams

Witt Istanbul Suites: fabulous boutique hotel in a trendy neighborhood (our favourite hotel in the city)

A note on where to stay in the city: avoid the touristy area around Sultanahmet. Instead, go across the Galata Bridge and stay in Beyoglu or Cihangir. You won’t be overwhelmed by tourists. Those areas are still neighborhoods where Turkish people live, eat and shop; the cafes, restaurants and bars are wonderful.

About Esme Vos

Esme Vos is the founder of Mapplr, a travel site featuring boutique hotels, luxury resorts, travel guides and restaurant reviews. You can find her on and Twitter.